How do you remove rust (iron) from your water?
A WATER SOFTENER CAN REDUCE IRON TO BELOW THE THRESHOLD OF STAINING, BUT IT CAN NOT TOTALLY REMOVE IT! Under some circumstances, a water softener will work for a while, but the resin bed will gradually become fouled with iron over months or years, decreasing it’s efficiency at removing the iron. To totally remove iron, one must utilize the following:(1) Oxidation and filtration; or (2) Sequestration using polyphosphates.POLYPHOSPHATES We will discuss sequestration of iron with polyphosphates first. Sequestration of iron with polyphosphates does not remove it from the water supply, but keeps the iron in solution, so that it does not produce stains. This is often used when individuals or businesses want to keep the iron from staining in irrigation systems. It is accomplished by injecting a small amount of polyphosphate into the water, typically with a chemical injection pump and a solution tank containing a supply of polyphosphate. However, it is not perfect in removing iron, as evaporation of the water can still leave an iron residue and the iron often precipitates when the water is heated. Results may very dramatically with sequestration, depending upon a variety of factors, not the least of which is water chemistry.
OXIDATION Almost any concentration of iron can be oxidized by feeding an oxidizer such as chlorine, ozone, potasium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide or even oxygen into the water supply. The oxidizer reduces the iron to a small particle (precipitate), which is then mechanically filtered from the water, typically by a backwashing filter with a dense media containing carbon or materials.
In my thirty-plus years of experience, I have personally tried every method known to man to remove iron. Today, I primarily tried use hydrogen peroxide, as it is a much better oxidizer of iron than either chlorine or potassium permanganate and does not leave excess air in the water like oxygen systems. Unlike chlorine, hydrogen peroxide is simply hydrogen and oxygen and produces no harmful chlorination byproducts. A hydrogen peroxide system consists of a chemical injection pump, solution tank, in-line static mixer, and a backwashing filter to remove the oxidized iron.
I prefer the hydrogen peroxide system because it completely removes iron and sulfur with totally predictable results. It is my opinion that other methods are not as predictable or reliable in function. A hydrogen peroxide system will remove 100% of the iron. PERIOD! For homebuilders that build large custom homes with irrigation systems on iron-bearing waters, the hydrogen peroxide system will totally eliminate any staining in irrigation systems, and throughout the home, for that matter. Additionally, a water softener will not have to work nearly as hard once the iron is completely removed. This is not to say that other methods can’t work. I am just stating my opinion based upon my extensive experience in treating problem water.
We would like to treat our well with hydrogen peroxide, and not just filter it at the house. Does anyone know how much we would need to add to the well to do this?
If you are using 7% H2O2, use 1 gallon per 100 feet of well depth. If you are using 35% (be careful) and use 1 quart per 100 foot of well depth.
Where do I get this ind of system? How much does it cost? How much does it cost to operate? I think your article is very good.
US WATER SYSTEMS sells this product.
Go to http://www.uswatersystems.com
Can Mark (or someone) give me more complete instructions about adding Peroxide to well water to eliminate iron?
How long do you leave the Peroxide in the well? Should I flush it directly outside, or let the water go through the house? Is there any danger to septic systems? Etc.?
Thanks.
Arthur,
I would not really recommend “dumping” H2O2 into the well. You can “shock” chlorinate a well, but Hydrogen Peroxide needs to be fed on a continual basis.
Mark,
I’m a bit confused. You write that you wouldn’t recommend dumping H2O2 into a well, but you seemed to be recommending it in your Dec 1 letter, above.
In any case, if that’s a bad idea, how do you shock chlorinate a well? How long do you leave the Chlorine in the well? Should I flush it directly outside, or let the water go through the house? Is there any danger to septic systems? Etc.?
Thanks again.
Mark,
Arthur again. I just found a lot of instruction on “shock chlorination.” The thing is, I have a lot of iron in my well, but I don’t think I have bacteria. No smell, just brown colour and grit from time to time. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Arthur,
Hydrogen Peroxide needs to be injected into a mixing chamber just ahead of your pressure tank. A peristaltic pump is used to inject it from a container of the H2O2. It immediately oxidizes the iron, manganese and sulfur ,which is then removed with a backwashing filter containing Centaur catalytic carbon. This system does a great job of eradicating the iron. If you want to “shock” chlorinate a well, you should use a chlorine disinfection kiy such as the one found here: http://tinyurl.com/3by58f
Follow the manufacturers’ directions and it should be fine to doe on an occasional basis (once or twice a year). Shock chlorination is only a temporary fix and you shouldn’t run any more chlorine than necessary into your septic tank. If you need to do so, flush some extra septic tank “bacteria” down the toilet to compensate.
Mark,
Thank you for the wonderful article. I am looking in to some possible solutions for getting the iron out of our water. I currently have a Softener and use Rustbuster Salt which does help, but nonetheless, we have a lot of iron in our system and thus in our fixtures. I went to the website you referenced - US Water Systems and looked at a H2O2 system (approx $1000). My question is, generally, how much does this system cost to run? Ie: I currently have to put in about $40 of salt in my softener every 2-3 months; how much H2O2 does this system take? I am really open to getting something if it will take care of the rust problem we have, but at the same time, I don’t want to pay that much money and then discover that it takes another $600/year to run/upkeep the system.
Are there resources for purchasing H2O2 that are more economic vs the US Water Systems site?
Thanks in advance for any info you can help with.
John
Our average customer spends $350/yr on H2O2, but if you buy the peroxide direct from a chemical company you can save a great deal of money. You typically buy 35% and cut it 4 to 1 with RO or distilled water. Be careful and follow all safety precautions with the 35%.
Mark,
What about filtration without oxidation for removing lower levels of iron? What are the pros and cons of simple filtration?
Thanks.
I just put in a well system for irrigation only, the PH is 6.7 and the Iron is a 15.8 MG/L. Will your Hydrogen Peroxide system that consists of a chemical injector pump, solution tank, in-line static mixer, and a backwashing filter work with this amount of iron? Would I need to add soda ash to increase the PH for it to work properly? Would one backwashing filter work to remove all the iron or would I need two.
Jeff
Greg asked:
What about filtration without oxidation for removing lower levels of iron? What are the pros and cons of simple filtration?
Greg,
In order to remove even some of the iron, it would require a filter with a .35 or lower micron rating and you would probably have to change it every day. It’s just not practical or cost effective. Additionally, it would not remove all the iron.
Jeff asked:
I just put in a well system for irrigation only, the PH is 6.7 and the Iron is a 15.8 MG/L. Will your Hydrogen Peroxide system that consists of a chemical injector pump, solution tank, in-line static mixer, and a backwashing filter work with this amount of iron? Would I need to add soda ash to increase the PH for it to work properly? Would one backwashing filter work to remove all the iron or would I need two.
Jeff,
You should not have to adjust the pH and I would recommend using two backwashing filters. The water flows through the first filter and then into the second. This gives longer contact time for filtration, ensures that you are using filtered water (even during backwashing of one tank) and results in overall better performance. When it comes times to change the Centaur media (usually around 5 years), you simply change the media in the first tank and switch the second tank to the number one tank position, putting the re-bedded tank in the number two position.
WHat aout the Pyrolox system? does it work for iron removal? will the iron preipitate in the hot water heater?
Water Doctor, where have you been all my life? We live in rural SW Minnesota and have terrible well water. We have a Culligan softner but still struggled with our blond hair turning orange along with our appliances. When Culligan would test our water they said it was fine. IT WAS NOT FINE. A local farmer introduced us to peroxide that we inject into our water lines before it enters our softner. It made a world of difference, however, our Culligan man says we are ruining his softner and RO drinking system by doing this. He claims peroxide is only meant for hog buildings. We don’t know if we should continue with the peroxide, drill a new well, or ditch Culligan? Any suggestions? thank you.
Do you have a backwashing filter before the water softener? For the H2O2 system to work properly, you must have a catalytic carbon backwashing filter. You can find them here:
http://store.uswatersystems.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=uswater&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=951122462&Count2=868262887&ProductID=186&Target=products.asp
I guess we have a lot of humans masquerading as “hogs.”
Dear Water Doctor:
Thank you for posting your expertise for those of us trying to manage our iron heavy water. Our water is corroding our plumbing fixtures and we would like to avoid constant replacement. Our plumber suggests we call a well specialist, but I wanted to contact you to educate ourselves before the bill comes!
I have inferred from all the previous emails that we will need to use peroxide in conjunction with a water softener (for which we do not own). Truly, the only issue we have with the water is the corrosion of the well pump (5 years) and corrosion of a pressure tank (also 5 years). I am concerned about using a water softener as I do not want to overburden my septic. It’s a fine balance! I guess I am looking for guidance on where to start, I would like to go in the right direction and fix the problem once! Thanks.
What do you mean by corrossion? I suspect you are talking about something other than low pH.
You would NOT use hydrogen peroxide with a water softener. You would use it with a backwashing filter and then could use a water softener to soften if necessary.
I would need more information, but with a softener you would use less detergent, chlorine, chemicals and the like which is also very bad on your septic tank.
I have a irrigation system that is supplied by well water. I have iron at 15.8 ppm with a Ph of 6.7. Do you have any recommendations on how to best remove the iron. The water is only used for irrigation. The pump is a 3/4hp and is down approximately 48′. It can produces anywhere from 3 - 16 gpm. All my zones are set up for 10 gpm which is the recommended gpm from the pump manufacturer. At 10 gpm, I have a psi out of the ground of between 72 - 80.
Any info would be help full.
Thanks
Jeff Stratton
What type of backwashing filter do you recommend?
Jeff,
How many gallons does it use a day?
In what part of the country are you located?
Typically, I recommend ththe OxiGen system located here:
http://www.uswatersystems.com/residential/ironsulfurremoval.html
A pellet chlorinator is also an option. You can call me at 800-608-USWATER to discuss options.
i have learned alot from reading above. i have a iron rich well here in the hill country of texas and other than using iron out and regular pellets, i’ve done nothing to help my softener except a carbon pre-filter. my real question is two part; i have a whirlpool r.o. and i’d like to know if H2O2 will ruin the membrane and also, do you have any idea of the amount of H20 that is dripping down into my p-trap daily? if these questions can be answered, i do appreciate it. Thanks matt
why have i not recieved a response yet?
Matt,
You have not recieved a response because I don’t behind my Keyboard 24/7/365 - I actually have a life! I was in Chicago yesterday at the largest Water Show in the country.
Now, as to your questions:
1. The H2O2 is removed by a backwashing filter BEFORE it gets to your softener, so it can only help the performance of the RO.
2. Most RO’s waste 4-5 gallons per gallon made.
Per your request, my systems uses about 1500-1800 gals to water the entire property. I live in New Jersey. I’ve read about Birm filters, but I think my PH (6.7) is to low, and Greensabd Filters. Reading info on these internet sites about cleaning the iron out of the water just gets me confused what to do.
Thanks
Jeff
ty 4 your answer. i apologize 4 my impatience, it is a GREAT fault of mine. i am very appreciative for your help. i will look into the idea of using H2O2 2 get rid of the rust.
matt
Jeff,
Hydrogen Peroxide is one way that I would recommend.
You might also condider an air (oxygen) filtration system. We have extensively tested these and are going to have them on our website next week. They use no chemicals and probably would be the cheapest method. Check at wwww.uswatersystems.com next week and enter “Sanis-Air Filtration.”
I am interested in the Waterdog system. I currently have a hydrogen peroxide system and would like to eliminated the cost of the peroxide. Would the Waterdog be a good choice?
(Click on this text to see a WaterDog PDF)
According to Waterdog, their patented Dissolved Oxygen Generator (D.O.G.) technology generates extremely high levels of dissolved oxygen in water. By oxidizing 100% of iron and manganese minerals in water, the WATER D.O.G. technology enables easy removal by filtration, while eliminating iron oxide and hydrogen sulfide odors. We are currently testing one on a small commercial application. So far, we are not impressed with the results. The installation had 7.5 ppm of iron and also had methane. The salesperson who sold us the Waterdog said that the methane was no problem - it’s was, as it seemed to strip away the air bubbles. We then added an areator to eliminate the methane. To date, it is still not working, but we have not given up hope. We will try a few more things and I will report back to you in the near future about our findings.
WATERDOG UPDATE
We changed the media in the filter tanks to Greensand Plus from Catalytic Carbon today. Let’s see what happens.
I want to install a filtration system to get rid of iron from our water; our pH is already 8, but we are installing a new concrete tank, which may increase the pH further. Once I oxidize the iron through a static mixer with Chlorine (or Hydrogen peroxide)then put it through a backwashing filter, will this process help to drop the pH, or will I be left with a high pH at the end of this this process.
The pH should be about the same.
WATERDOG UPDATE
So far, the iron is below .3 ppm, but Waterdog says it should be 0!
Hummm….
WATERDOG UPDATE:
Today, the system has been on line for about two weeks. The iron reading is ZERO. The WATERDOG system seems to be working very nicely. For the record, the amount of water being treated is about 12,000 Gallons Per Day. This shall be an interesting test. If this works, the Waterdog could have excellent potential in the high-end home market. The cost is entirely “up-front” as there are no chmicals to buy and no maintenance.
Any new updates on the Waterdog? What is the cost of one of the units?
So far, it seems to be doing a great job.
$4,000.00 to $8,000.00
Mark,
Is the Sanis-Air Filtration still going forward or are you leaning towards the Water D.O.G.
Jeff
Jeff,
Yes, it is.
We made a big decision to totally re-do our website and that is top priority right now, but if you want to call me later this week, I can talk to you about the new SanisAire syetm.
Dear Mark!
We have a colligen water softener, we use bleach once a month,and the brime tank is also always full of salt but still we have huge rust stains on all our laundary, washbasin, bath tub, dishes anything that is exposed to water.
We did call a colligen expert for tuning but of no use.
I am quite frustrated with all this
Can you kindly suggest any way how to eliminate rust stains as well as hard water stains from the water.
Many thanks in advance
Sobia
Sobia,
You will need a complete water analysis before I can recommend anything. Here’s the link:
http://www.uswatersystems.com/catalog/ntl-watercheck-test-kit.htm